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Boat Battery Bank Calculator

Size your marine house battery bank for your electrical needs

Quick Samples
Try these common configurations to get started

Weekend Cruiser

Basic electronics and lights

Liveaboard Sailboat

Full systems, refrigeration, etc.

Offshore Fishing Boat

High-power electronics for a day trip

Hull Dimensions
Enter your boat's principal dimensions
About This Tool
This calculator helps you determine the total Amp-hour (Ah) capacity required for your boat's house battery bank. It considers your daily electrical load, desired reserve time, and the type of batteries you plan to use.

Key Concepts:

Amp-Hour (Ah): The standard unit of battery capacity.
Daily Load: The total Ah consumed by all devices in 24 hours.
Depth of Discharge (DoD): How much of the battery's capacity you use.
Safety Margin: Extra capacity to account for aging and system inefficiencies.
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Battery Bank Sizing Calculator: What It Does and Why It Matters

The house battery bank is the boat's power reserve, and it is sized by a simple, unforgiving question: how many amp-hours do you actually draw, and for how many hours before you can recharge? Undersize it and you are running the engine at anchor to keep the fridge alive, or stranded with a dead start battery on a dark night.

Capacity is not what the label says. A lead-acid battery should rarely be discharged past half, while lithium tolerates eighty or ninety, so the usable capacity and therefore the bank size depend heavily on chemistry and the depth of discharge you allow. That single factor usually decides between a comfortable bank and a chronically stressed one.

Enter your average load in amps and the hours you want to run off it, choose the chemistry, and the calculator sizes the bank, applies a safety margin and warns you when the depth of discharge is pushing lead-acid too hard.

The Battery Bank Sizing Formula
Amp-Hours Needed = Load (A) × Hours; Required Capacity = Ah ÷ Depth of Discharge; Bank = Required × 1.20 safety
  • Load — Average current drawn from the bank in amps
  • Hours — Time you want to run on battery before recharging
  • Depth of Discharge — Fraction of capacity you safely use: 0.5 lead-acid, 0.85 lithium
  • Amp-Hours — Total charge the bank must store to cover the load
  • Bank Capacity — Rated Ah to install, including a twenty percent margin
Worked Example: Battery Bank Sizing Step by Step
  1. 1An average overnight draw of 5 amps for 10 hours on AGM lead-acid batteries.
  2. 2Amp-hours needed = 5 × 10 = 50 Ah consumed.
  3. 3Lead-acid should not go past about 50 percent depth of discharge, so required capacity = 50 ÷ 0.5 = 100 Ah.
  4. 4Add the twenty percent safety margin: 100 × 1.20 = 120 Ah of rated bank.
  5. 5The same duty on lithium at 85 percent depth of discharge needs only 50 ÷ 0.85 × 1.2 ≈ 71 Ah, which is why lithium banks are so much smaller and lighter for identical loads.
How to Use This Calculator
  1. Estimate your average continuous amp draw.
  2. Enter the hours you want to run off battery.
  3. Select the chemistry to set its usable depth.
  4. Keep a safety margin for the surprises aboard.
  5. Read the bank capacity in amp-hours you should buy.
Battery Bank Sizing Reference Table
ChemistrySafe Depth of DischargeRelative SizeNote
Flooded lead-acid50%LargeCheap, needs upkeep
AGM50%LargeSealed, maintenance-free
Gel50 - 60%LargeSensitive charging
Lithium (LiFePO4)80 - 90%SmallLight, costly upfront

Usable capacity by battery chemistry.

What This Means in a Real Build
  • Measure the real load, do not guess it. Log what the fridge, electronics, lights and pump actually draw over an average anchorage night, and size from that, because the difference between a comfortable bank and a stressed one is almost always an underestimated load.
  • Respect depth of discharge above all. Repeatedly draining lead-acid past half its rated capacity destroys it fast, so size lead banks twice the theoretical need; lithium's tolerance is what lets a smaller bank last, and it is the core reason to weigh chemistry early.
  • Keep starting and house duties separate. A dedicated start battery, isolated by a combiner or relay, protects the ability to turn the engine over even when the house bank has been worked hard, and prevents the classic mistake of cranking off a depleted house bank.
  • Plan how the bank refills. Capacity is only useful if the engine alternator, solar or a charger can restore it within your normal routine, so match bank size to real charging capability, not just to the load on the drawing side.
  • Lithium earns its cost where weight, space or deep cycling bite. It is heavier-avoidant, lighter and truly cycle-tolerant, but needs a compatible charging profile and protection, so buy it for the duty it suits rather than treating it as a drop-in for every boat.

Formula verified against standard naval-architecture references · Updated October 2026

Battery Bank Sizing Calculator: Frequently Asked Questions

What size battery bank do I need?

Multiply your average amp draw by the hours you want to run, divide by the depth of discharge your chemistry tolerates, and add about twenty percent margin. A 5 amp, 10 hour load on lead-acid needs roughly a 120 Ah bank; the same on lithium needs about 70 Ah. Enter your load and hours here and the calculator sizes it and flags when you are asking lead-acid to work too deep.

Why can't I use the full rated amp-hours?

Because draining a battery deeply shortens its life, dramatically for lead-acid. A lead battery's cycles collapse if you regularly pull past about half its capacity, so only half the label is usable; lithium keeps most of its capacity over thousands of deeper cycles. The depth-of-discharge division in the calculation is exactly this reality, and it is the main reason lead banks are physically large.

Is lithium worth it on a boat?

Where weight, space or frequent deep discharge matter, usually yes. Lithium lets you install a smaller, far lighter bank that accepts a deeper discharge and lasts many more cycles, and it holds voltage better under load. It costs more upfront and needs correct charging and protection, so it pays off on cruisers who live off the bank, less on boats that top up daily.

How do I size for the fridge and electronics?

Add their average draw over the period they run, not their peak label current. A compressor fridge cycles, so estimate its duty and average amps; electronics draw steadily. Log or estimate an average anchorage load including lighting and instruments, then feed that into the hours you want off-grid. The average, not the maximum, is what sizes the bank honestly.

Should the start battery be separate?

Yes. A dedicated, isolated starting battery guarantees you can crank the engine even after the house bank has been worked down, which is a genuine safety feature and not a luxury. Charging Combiners or battery switches let one alternator fill both while keeping the duties apart, so a hard night of house loads never leaves you unable to start.

How does charging affect bank size?

A bank is only as good as how fast it refills. If your alternator or solar can only return a few tens of amp-hours an hour, a very large lead bank may never fully charge between uses and will sulfur and fade. Match capacity to real charging capability on top of the load calculation, so the bank returns to full within your normal sailing or anchoring routine.

Do old batteries change the math?

They shrink the usable side of it. A bank loses capacity with age and cycles, so a bank sized exactly to need becomes marginal as it wears. That is why a safety margin matters: build in headroom so the bank still covers your load after a few seasons of normal capacity fade, rather than starting out at the very edge of what it can do.

Sources & Further Reading
  • Boatowner's Mechanical & Electrical Repairs — Nick Davis
  • ABYC Electrical Standards — American Boat and Yacht Council
  • Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction — Gougeon Brothers